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Homegrown: Matunuck Oysters

Homegrown: Matunuck Oysters

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Think you know New England shellfish? These gems from Little Rhody are a new reason to savor the oyster.

Perry Raso, owner of Matunuck Oyster Farm, is waist-deep in water, hauling up one of the 10,000 bags lined up in rows along the floor of Potter Pond, a saltwater basin in South Kingstown, on the southern coast of Rhode Island. He pulls out a handful of oysters, each about an inch wide, then returns them to the sack. These youngsters are much too small to be harvested, but with time, they’ll be large and plump, ready to serve at Raso’s restaurant, Matunuck Oyster Bar, just a stone’s throw across the water. They’ll also make their way to restaurants from Boston and Newport to New York and Atlanta. And they’ll be uniquely Matunucks, with their distinct, briny crispness and lightly sweet finish, like a friendly goodbye.

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